Man&#39;s drape coat



March 9, 1943 L. NATALE I 2,313,665

MANS DRAPE COAT Filed Oct. 10, 19 41 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 March 9, 1943. NATALE I 7 2,313,665

MANS DRAPE GOAT I Fil ed Oct. 10, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 1 001,9 NATALE.

v it Patented Mar. 9, 1943 MAN'S DRAPE- COAT Louis Natale, Baltimore County, Md., assignor to L. Greif & Bro., Inc., a corporation of Maryland Application October 1941, Serial No. 414,435

6 Claims.

The invention relates to the type of mens garment referred to in the trade as a drape coat, distinguished from the plain type of garment in that the drape coat has a relatively full and broad chest portion and shoulders, a suppressed waist and flat hips.

The subject of the invention is an improved pattern and method of cutting and sewing the garment to give the most satisfactory fit of the waist and hip portion, particularly the flat side and front of the hip with the suppressed waist at the minimum of expense in fabric and labor.

In accordance with the method most generally followed in the production of ready-made drape coats, a suppressed waist effect is obtained by means of a diamond shaped vertically elongated front cut out at each side just above the side or lower pocket and a vertical under arm cut out extending downwardly from each arm hole and slightly below the pocket slot.

In completin the garment both cut outs are closed according to the well known practice in the tailoring art.

Keeping in mind the fact that the average man who would wear a drape coat has flat areas at the front and side of the hip bone and a convex or rounded area at the rear of the same, it is found that the method of cutting previously practiced distributes the fullness immediately below the cut out uniformly to the front and rear of the seam giving too much fullness at the front and too little at the rear. The garments thus cut lack the extremely flat side and front hip effect which is sought by the wearers of this type of coat, the efiect which is sought being largely sacrificed.

According to the practice of the present invention, the front cut out is pointed at the top as in the previous practice but instead of being pointed at the bottom, it is of approximately uniform Width or slightly tapered downwardly from the point of maximum width which may be near the center of its vertical length. The maximum width of the cut out is at or near the waist line and it extends down to the lower pocket or side pocket as it has been termed. An important feature of this new method and construction is the provision of a vertically elongated triangular gore in the under arm cut out near its lower end, the gore having its acute vertex disposed upwardly and its base extending along the pocket slot.

The triangular insert transfers the resulting fullness at the bottom of the cut outs to the rear, giving increased fullness just back of the hip bone where it is needed and, particularly with the new form of cut outs, it gives the desired flatness at the front and side of the hip. The suppressed waist effect is retained and, as seen from the front or side, the flat hip or hip slenderizing effect is exaggerated and thus more satisfactory to the wearer than the result obtained by the method above suggested as most generally practiced prior to this invention. While an effect similar to that obtained by the practice of the invention may be otherwise accomplished, as by making a coat side in two main pieces, by extending the under arm seam down to the bottom edge of the coat and including the bias cuts therein, this involves much greater expense in work and material, such construction being more a matter of special tailoring than of ready-made practice.

In the accompanying drawings I have illustrated a pattern and a garment embodying the features of my invention in the preferred form.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a plan view of the left side of the garment out ready for sewing.

' Fig. 2 is a fragmentary view of the same with the gore sewed to one edge of the under arm cut out.

Fig. 3 is a similar view showing the front cut out closed by sewing and the under arm cut out ready to be closed.

Fig. 4 shows the same area with both gores closed.

Fig. 5 is a plan of the insert.

Fig. 6 is a front view of the finished garment.

Fig. '7 is a side elevation of the same with the sleeve removed to expose the under arm area including the cut out seams and gore.

Referring to the drawings by numerals each of which is used to indicate the same or similar parts in the different figures, the subject shown in Figs. 1 to 4 is the left front side of a drape coat, cut and gored in accordance with th invention, the same being laid flat as on a table.

This coat side I has a lapel 2, arm hole 3, a rear edge 4 to be sewed to the corresponding edge of the back of the garment, a pocket slot 5, a skirt portion 6, and a bottom edge I. The button hole or holes would be adjacent the front edge 8, the two sides of the coat are practically identical.

The important feature of the invention resides in the method and means for attaining an improved flat front and side hip effect which is more satisfactory and is attained at a considerably reduced expense in labor and material as compared to the results obtained in and by the previous practice. Having particular reference to Fig. 1, the'cutting method of the invention in the preferrecl form includes the provision of a vertical front cut out 9 pointed at the top at It! and of downwardly increasing taper to a median location I! and of approximately uniform width or take in downwardly from location I l which may be its greatest width and which comes near the waist line of the garment. The maximum width may extend down to the horizontal pocket slot at which is the bottom end of the gore. The bottom or side pocket slot 5 is located approximately on a line with the hip bone.

In the new construction, as in the previous practice, there is an under-arm cut out l4 but an important feature of the new construction not contained in the previous patterns is a triangular gore in the under-arm cut out extending downwardly to the pocket. This gore is vertically elongated having the acute vertex I! upwardly disposed. The triangular insert has its base or bottom I8 approximately of a width equal to the width of the base l2 of the front cut out so that the material drawn forwardly by the closing of the front cut out is replaced at the rear directly over the rear of the hip giving the desired fullness at the rear of the hip. The pocket as shown is cut out at l9 and the closing of the front cut out 9 as by sewing brings the underarm cut out l4 including the gore l6 sewed to the front edge of cut out l4 into alignment with pocket cut out l9. The latter is of reducing taper downwardly and the cut outs I4 and I9 thus aligned or combined are of triangular shape as shown in Fig. 3, or of a similar shape.

Referring to Figure 1 it is regarded as of interest that cut out [4 as is shown, is of slightly reducing taper upwardly from an offset or shoulder 20 which is formed in the forward edge 2| of cut out l4 and the offset extends downwardly and rearwardly being inclined rearwardly from a vertex 22 in said forward edge 2|. Below said shoulder the forward edge 2| at 24 is parallel to the rear edge 25 of said out out, and the rear edge 25 as shown preferably is approximately straight and vertical. The triangular gore I6 is sewn or attached to the edge 24, below offset 20 with its vertex I? at the lower end of the offset 20. The cut out M in this condition is shown in Figure 3, in which figure the cut out 14 is of reducing taper upwardly and downwardly from the maximum width at 22 which is below the center of the length of the cut out. In this condition the cut out is approximately triangular with the long base 25 upright and the vertex 22 forwardly disposed.

The closing or sewing of cut outs id and 19 as shown in Fig. 4 gives a suppressed waist as shown at 20 in Fig. 6 and extremely fiat front and. side hip areas 2| and 22 as best shown in Figs. 6 and '7.

- It is also notable that, as shown in Figs. 6 and the cut out scams 9 and 14 are reduced to smoothly curved lines by finishing and pressing the garment.

It is important that as a result of this method of cutting and sewing the garment an extremely flat front and side hip effect is obtained together with a closely suppressed waist, giving, particularly with the full chest, which is a feature of such garments, the maximum of slenderizationat the waist and hips without any perceptible increase in expense of material or labor as in sewing and finishingthe cut out seams.

I have thus described a method of cutting and sewing and a garment embodying my invention in the preferred form, the description being specific and in detail in order that the manner of applying, operating and using the invention may be fully understood, however, the specific terms herein are used as descriptively rather than in a limiting sense, the scope of the invention being defined in the claims.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

1. In a mans drape coat side having a side pocket slot near the hip, an upright front cut out forward of the arm hole and pointed at the top and of increased width near the waist line, said cut out extending down to the pocket, and being of substantial width at the top of the pocket slot an upright under-arm cut out extending from the arm hole downwardly substantially to said pocket, said latter cut out being of maximum width at a point below the center of its length and below said point, of downwardly reducing taper ending above said pocket, said under-arm cut out having therein a vertically elongated triangular gore with its vertex upwardly disposed extending downwardly from the end of said taper, the base of the insert being at the pocket.

2. In a mans drape coat side having a side pocket slot near the hip, an upright front cut out pointed at the top and of increased width near the waist line, said out out extending down to the pocket and being of a substantial width at the top of the pocket slot, and an upright under-arm cut out extending from the lower side of the arm hole down into the outside wall of the pocket, the forward edge of said out out having a downwardly and rearwardly inclined offset below the center of its length and a vertically elongated triangular gore in said out out with its vertex at the lower end of said offset and upwardly disposed, the base of the said gore being at the top of said pocket, said base being of a width approximately equal to the width of the bottom of the front cut out.

3. In a mans drape coat side having a side pocket slot near the hip, an upright front cut out pointed at the top and of excess width near the waist line, substantially the full maximum width or take-in of said out out extending down to the pocket, and an upright under-arm cut out extending from the lower side of the arm hole down into the outside wall of the pocket and a vertically elongated triangular gore in said out out with its vertex below the center of said out out and upwardly disposed, the base of the said gore being at the top of said pocket, said base being of a width approximately equal to the width of the bottom of the front cut out, the portion of said out out in the wall of the pocket being pointed at its lower end and of upwardly increasing taper, and terminating in said pocket wall, said under arm cut out with the gore attached being immediately prior to the final closing, of flat triangular shape with the base to the rear and upright and the corresponding vertex forwardly disposed. V

4. The method of making the side of a draped coat having a side pocket near the hip, which method comprises forming a vertical front cut out located forwardly of the arm hole and pointed at the top and of increasing taper downwardly approximately to the waist line, and ex-- of the cut out and its base at the top of said pocket, closing said out out by stitching, the width of the gore corresponding to the width of the front out out both measured at the top of said pocket thus reducing the fullness of the garment at the waistline and transferring it to the rear, below the waistline.

5. A coat side having a side pocket slot below the waistline, a front cut out of narrow elongated triangular shape having its acute vertex upwardly disposed and its base at the top side of the pocket slot and an underarm tapered out out extending from the arm hole downwardly across the pocket slot, and having approximately its maximum width near the waistline.

6. A coat side having a. side pocket slot below the waistline, a front cut out of narow elongated triangular shape having its acute vertex upwardly disposed and its base at the top edge of the pocket slot and an under arm tapered cut out extending from the arm hole downwardly across the pocket slot, and having approximately its maximum width near the waistline, the latter cut out containing an approximately triangular elongated insert located with its acute vertex upwardly disposed near the waistline and its base forming part of the top edge of the pocket slot.

LOUIS NATALE. 

